January 24th, 2006
When you need to replace your exhaust system due to rust or damage, consider an aftermarket exhaust. If you are concerned about price, often times an aftermarket exhaust can be cheaper than the factory system.
I was working on my father’s 1989 Chevrolet Pickup and needed to replace the muffler and tail pipe. The factory parts were well over $200, and a complete aftermarket exhaust was $180. I went with the aftermarket exhaust DynoMax and ended up with a better sounding exhaust tone and a few bucks in my pocket.
I generally buy my exhaust systems from http://www.summitracing.com They have good prices and quick shipping.
Kevin
Permanent link to this post (107 words, estimated 26 secs reading time)
Posted in Exhaust | No Comments »
January 23rd, 2006
I spent part of the day yesterday watching the International Auto Show on TV. What a great show to see what the future holds in the way of new vehicles. You can check out their website at http://www4.naias.com/
My personal favorite car, was the Dodge Challenger
http://www.cnn.com/2006/AUTOS/funonwheels/01/04/dodge_challenger/
Check it out and let’s hope Dodge builds it and KEEPS it a 2 door, not a 4 Door like they did with the Charger.
Kevin
Permanent link to this post (74 words, estimated 18 secs reading time)
Posted in Site News | No Comments »
January 19th, 2006
Your cars cooling system is vulnerable to the cold temperatures in the winter months. Proper maintenance of your cars cooling system can prevent freeze-ups and corrosion problems.
The coolant in your car’s engine is a mixture of water and anti-freeze, a chemical to prevent freezing. Straight water is the best liquid to remove heat from your engine, but will freeze below 32 degrees F, so antifreeze is necessary. Before each winter season you should have your coolant checked by a mechanic for PH and freezing point. It’s a simple test which can be done in a few minutes and can save you repair bills and hassles down the road. You can buy a tester at your local parts store and test the coolant yourself, but you will need to be careful to check the levels when the engine is cold. If the PH or freezing point is off, it’s time to change coolant. A certified mechanic will have the proper equipment to flush and refill your coolant system and properly dispose of the old coolant.
Permanent link to this post (176 words, estimated 42 secs reading time)
Posted in Car Care | No Comments »
January 19th, 2006
Not many people enjoy driving in the ice and snow, but there
are a few things to decrease your stress levels and make your drive much safer.
- Inspect your tires: New tires will give you the traction
you will need for the winter months. Make sure you check
the air pressures also. In colder months, the air
contracts and you can lose air pressure in your tires,
with just a drop in temperature.
- Carry a bag of salt or ice melt in the trunk: If you
have a rear wheel drive car, this will also add some
weight for traction. Salt can also be used to melt snow
and aid in traction if you become stuck.
- Take it easy: Some people with 4-wheel drive vehicles
think they can go faster…. well 4-wheel drive does not
help you stop any faster on ice or snow !
- When you start to slide: Steer the direction you want
the front of the car to go. Be careful not to over
correct. I often recommend drivers find an empty parking
lot and practice sliding the car to get an idea how it
feels. Make sure you can safely practice and get
permission to use the parking lot.
- Leave plenty of room: Always think ahead and leave
plenty of room to stop if something should go wrong.
Anticipate what other drivers may do before they do it,
and have an emergency exit from the situation.
Posted in Car Care | No Comments »
January 18th, 2006
We all know that when you trade in your vehicle at the dealership, you receive less than retail price for it. If you spend a little time and play it smart, you can sell your trade-in and save some money.
Before you go to sell your vehicle, you should research the value and see what kind of price you should be looking for. Check http://www.nadaguides.com and http://www.edmunds.com for retail or private party pricing. You should also research trade-in pricing, so you know what you would likely be offered if you traded in the car.
The next step is to evaluate your car’s condition. Getting a car detailed can add 100′s of dollars to the value and help sell it faster. Also make sure you have all service records in one place, so you can show the potential buyer. Even if you do not have all of the records, a written summary of the work you have put into the car helps.
Once you are happy with your car’s appearance, it’s time to advertise. Online advertising is a hit or miss proposition. Stay away from small sites, which get little traffic, it’s a waste of your time and money. A large site which I like Cars.com
is the best place to advertise.
You can also advertise in local papers, and classified magazines. I have also found that a simple ad placed on a grocery store bulletin board works well for certain cars. If it’s under $5,000, it will attract interest at these bulletin boards.
Posted in Selling Your Car | No Comments »