Auto Repair Advice

Boy, do I get a lot of questions about why my car won’t start. I just went through this problem with my 1969 Lincoln Continental a few days ago, and figured I would detail my process and hopefully help a few of you guys out working on your own cars.

My Lincoln sits a lot and has not been starting very well since I bought it a few months ago. I went to start it and heard the dreaded click-click of the solenoid going, but the starter not turning. I guess it’s time to start diagnosing.

My first suspect was the battery, so I disconnected it and put it on the charger. After a night of charging, I whipped out my battery tester, which is basically a volt meter with a resistor built it to put a load on the battery. I used a model from Harbor Freight.. cheap, but I don’t use it that often and it works.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90636
Well, the battery was marginal, so I replaced it just to be safe. The battery was in the car when I bought it, and was not marked as to when it was installed, so I could not determine the age. When in doubt, replace it !

The next step was to inspect the cables running from the battery to the solenoid, ground cable, and the cable from the solenoid to the starter. The battery cables were in good condition, but the cable from the solenoid to the starter had a huge rip in the insulation and the copper wires were corroded. This will prevent the stater from getting full power, and will make the starter crank slow, if at all. So off to the parts store to get a new cable. $4 later, I was under the car replacing the cable. While I was at the store, I picked up a new starter solenoid for $6 which is just cheap insurance. Since you can not open up the solenoid and inspect it, it’s easier just to replace if you don’t know the age.

After everything was replaced, I got in the car, and the old Lincoln fired right up. The start spun fast, and strong, just like new.

When you are done with all your repairs, it’s a good idea to protect your connectors with a battery terminal grease available at any auto parts store. The grease prevents corrosion and can be found in tube or spray form.

Kevin

Most people have heard of synthetic oil for your engine, but did you know that you can get synthetic oil for your transmission, and rear axle? The guys at Royal Purple http://www.royalpurple.com/ have a full line of lubricants for your car. The main advantage of using synthetics in all your moving parts, is the reduced friction. You can free up horsepower and save money with increased gas mileage. I changed all the fluids in my Dodge Stealth and noticed an instant improvement, plus I knew my car was being protected from friction with the best lubricants available.

Kevin

I have been running synthetic oil for a few years in my cars and love it. The longer oil change intervals and better lubrication are the major advantages. I have a good series of articles on the site which help you learn about synthetic oil. There are many myths out there about synthetic oil and you should be aware of the truth. I will only run synthetic in my performance cars, and usually use Mobil 1 or Amsoil. Royal Purple has a good line of products also.

Kevin

Don’t want to spend tons of money on tools, just to change your oil or do some minor repairs. Snap-On and MAC tools are great for professional mechanics, but expensive for a shade tree mechanic. I usually recommend people buy Craftsman tools if they plan on doing a lot of work on their own vehicle. Craftsman tools are the best quality tools for the money, and include a lifetime guarantee. Shop online at www.sears.com

If you are doing minor repairs or are on a budget, consider tools from Harbor Freight www.harborfreight.com which also generally have a lifetime warranty but are made overseas and not of the quality of Craftsman tools.

No matter what tools you buy, keep them clean and organized and they will reward you with a long useful life.

I have been asked many times if it matters where you buy your gasoline. My answer is always this… Stick with a major brand of gasoline, and try to buy your gasoline in an area where there are a lot of gas stations. Why? well if you buy your gasoline in a populated area with many gas stations in the same area, it creates competition, and you are more likely to get a lower price per gallon.
By sticking with a name brand gasoline, you are assured you are getting a quality product with a company to stand behind it. Most major brands of gasolines have a lot of detergents in their gasoline which help your car run cleaner. You will also want to run some fuel injector cleaner through your tank, every month or so, depending on how many miles you drive.

Kevin

When you need to replace your exhaust system due to rust or damage, consider an aftermarket exhaust. If you are concerned about price, often times an aftermarket exhaust can be cheaper than the factory system.

I was working on my father’s 1989 Chevrolet Pickup and needed to replace the muffler and tail pipe. The factory parts were well over $200, and a complete aftermarket exhaust was $180. I went with the aftermarket exhaust DynoMax and ended up with a better sounding exhaust tone and a few bucks in my pocket.

I generally buy my exhaust systems from http://www.summitracing.com They have good prices and quick shipping.

Kevin

I spent part of the day yesterday watching the International Auto Show on TV. What a great show to see what the future holds in the way of new vehicles. You can check out their website at http://www4.naias.com/

My personal favorite car, was the Dodge Challenger
http://www.cnn.com/2006/AUTOS/funonwheels/01/04/dodge_challenger/

Check it out and let’s hope Dodge builds it and KEEPS it a 2 door, not a 4 Door like they did with the Charger.

Kevin

Your cars cooling system is vulnerable to the cold temperatures in the winter months. Proper maintenance of your cars cooling system can prevent freeze-ups and corrosion problems.

The coolant in your car’s engine is a mixture of water and anti-freeze, a chemical to prevent freezing. Straight water is the best liquid to remove heat from your engine, but will freeze below 32 degrees F, so antifreeze is necessary. Before each winter season you should have your coolant checked by a mechanic for PH and freezing point. It’s a simple test which can be done in a few minutes and can save you repair bills and hassles down the road. You can buy a tester at your local parts store and test the coolant yourself, but you will need to be careful to check the levels when the engine is cold. If the PH or freezing point is off, it’s time to change coolant. A certified mechanic will have the proper equipment to flush and refill your coolant system and properly dispose of the old coolant.

Not many people enjoy driving in the ice and snow, but there
are a few things to decrease your stress levels and make your drive much safer.

- Inspect your tires: New tires will give you the traction
you will need for the winter months. Make sure you check
the air pressures also. In colder months, the air
contracts and you can lose air pressure in your tires,
with just a drop in temperature.

- Carry a bag of salt or ice melt in the trunk: If you
have a rear wheel drive car, this will also add some
weight for traction. Salt can also be used to melt snow
and aid in traction if you become stuck.

- Take it easy: Some people with 4-wheel drive vehicles
think they can go faster…. well 4-wheel drive does not
help you stop any faster on ice or snow !

- When you start to slide: Steer the direction you want
the front of the car to go. Be careful not to over
correct. I often recommend drivers find an empty parking
lot and practice sliding the car to get an idea how it
feels. Make sure you can safely practice and get
permission to use the parking lot.

- Leave plenty of room: Always think ahead and leave
plenty of room to stop if something should go wrong.
Anticipate what other drivers may do before they do it,
and have an emergency exit from the situation.

- Stay home: If the weather is too bad, don’t risk going
out. Stay home and cuddle up with your
wife/husband/boyfriend/girlfriend and be glad you are
not out there on the road.

Safe Travels,

Kevin Schappell

We all know that when you trade in your vehicle at the dealership, you receive less than retail price for it. If you spend a little time and play it smart, you can sell your trade-in and save some money.

Before you go to sell your vehicle, you should research the value and see what kind of price you should be looking for. Check http://www.nadaguides.com and http://www.edmunds.com for retail or private party pricing. You should also research trade-in pricing, so you know what you would likely be offered if you traded in the car.

The next step is to evaluate your car’s condition. Getting a car detailed can add 100’s of dollars to the value and help sell it faster. Also make sure you have all service records in one place, so you can show the potential buyer. Even if you do not have all of the records, a written summary of the work you have put into the car helps.

Once you are happy with your car’s appearance, it’s time to advertise. Online advertising is a hit or miss proposition. Stay away from small sites, which get little traffic, it’s a waste of your time and money. A large site which I like Cars.com is the best place to advertise.

You can also advertise in local papers, and classified magazines. I have also found that a simple ad placed on a grocery store bulletin board works well for certain cars. If it’s under $5,000, it will attract interest at these bulletin boards.

Good Luck,

Kevin

More Information on Selling Your Car