Usually removing the bugs involves lots of scrubbing and a sore arm as a result. Well I grabbed the Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover, sprayed it on the bad spots and let it sit, while I cleaned the wheels and tires.

The first thing I noticed, was that this stuff clings to the car, and does not run off onto the driveway, even if you accidently get water on it.

I went about washing the car, from the top down, and when I got to the side mirrors, the bugs simply wiped off !!! I have never had bugs just wipe off, even when using another brand of bug a tar remover. I thought maybe this was a fluke and surely the bugs splattered on the front bumper would present more of a challenge.

By the time I had gotten to the front bumper, I was already tired from washing, but to my delight the bugs simply wiped off here too. I think I just found my favorite new car wash product.

After I finished washing the car, and dried it, I sat down and read the bottle, it actually explains in the directions to use AFTER you finish washing. I guess I used it wrong, but let me tell you, I have never had an experience like this before and will continue to soak the bugs BEFORE washing.

Here is a shot of the bottle so you know what to look for in your favorite auto parts store…

 Turtle Wax held their first automotive bloggers summit on April 21-22, 2009 at their headquarters in Willowbrook, IL, a suburb of Chicago. Nine bloggers attended and were treated to a tour of their Shine Center product development laboratory and 1-bay product testing area. Turtle Wax’s purpose for the summit was two-fold I believe:

  1.   Show the automotive bloggers what Turtle Wax is up to and hopefully get some free press with a review or two of their products for people to read, and

 2.  Gather feed-back from readers and writers on their products and their marketing approaches with their new ICE product line.

I think they accomplished both objectives with the product samples, tour and product demonstrations and Q&A session on the 22^nd. They used an outside PR firm, Zeno Group, to set-up and conduct the summit as well as follow-up with attendees after the summit. It was a very well run event with no snags as far as I could see. When my flight was delayed out of Philly, they called to assure me that the limo driver would wait for me and then get me to the restaurant as soon as I arrived at the hotel.

 Turtle Wax is still a family-owned private company that began in the 40s in Chicago. The founder changed his early product’s name to Turtle Wax after a trip to Wisconsin where he stopped along Turtle Creek and saw turtles playing in the creek. He thought of their hard shells and that his car wax could be thought of as a hard shell coating on a car’s finish.

Top management is still family and are in their 40s, I’d say, but they recently brought in a 40-something British chief operating officer. Since they are private they did not reveal their annual sales or other performance or income numbers. They did say the US appearance car care market is about $600 Million and they and two other firms each have roughly 1/3 of the market. They sell their products in 90 countries so their international sales are substantial but no sales figures were given. In emerging countries car care product sales are meager but in the developed countries they have much better sales.

There are 4 production plants in the US that produce their products but the top managers indicated that they do not own these plants. They are working with a Chinese firm to set-up production of their products in China for Pacific Rim sales.

We toured their Shine Center product development lab and 1-bay testing area where they test their formulations on employee-owned vehicles, primarily.

 They appear to be developing more marketing savvy the last 5 years with the introduction of a new super premium product line called ICE over the past 3 ½ years. They keep expanding the line to include easier-to-use and innovative products for both exterior and interior surfaces. All their appearance products are self-developed but they do use analytical methods to reverse engineer competitors’ products.

One purpose for the bloggers conference was clear in the Q&A session during and after lunch on the 22nd. They wanted feedback on the appearance car care products and their marketing approach recently with the ICE line. The ICE products have blue packaging and the Turtle Wax brand was de-emphasized in the packaging and advertising and has led to poor customer recognition that the ICE products are by Turtle Wax. They are changing their packaging to show larger turtle logos and also more green and less blue. Several bloggers were very blunt in their impressions of the ICE products in that they do not look like Turtle Wax products.

They also emphasized that the ICE line and their product development efforts are based on customer wants and needs. The ICE products either save steps and time in application or solve a new problem that has developed with newer cars. For example, the ICE polish system is a one-step product that can be applied in the sun making it easier to use and faster to apply than standard waxes. It also doesn’t leave a residue like standard waxes. Also, they developed a headlight lens scratch removal kit that is needed for newer polycarbonate headlight lens that fog, discolor and scratch more readily.

 They also market the Marvel Mystery Oil product line, a business they bought some time ago and still grows slightly in sales each year. Its primary ‘claim-to-fame product is an engine oil additive that increases detergent properties and prevents and removes sludge build-up in the top-end of engines.

They have another performance line called CD2 which has specialty products such as oil leak stops which swell gaskets and reduce or stop leaks.

Their product brochure lists two Zymol products which are distributed by Turtle Wax and probably how the rumor that Zymol products are made by Turtle Wax got started. Mike Shultz, TW’s Vice-president of Product Development, said that Zymol developed its own formulations but uses Turtle Wax distribution channels for some of their products. I suspect that some of the Zymol products are also made in the same plants that produce the Turtle Wax products.

Mike Schultz led the tour and demonstrations. Their product development lab is no more than 2000 sq.ft. with bench shelves loaded with hundreds of various product components screened for possible use in their products. They also have analytical equipment to help reverse-engineer competitive products. He also showed us a sample of carnauba wax which is in their standard car wax products. Carnauba wax is softer than synthetic polymers and gives a certain shine and feel that customers really like. It is imported from Brazil where it is scraped from palm leaves.

In the lab he demonstrated the use of the Premium Chrome and Metal polish on a used chrome reversed wheel which really shone after treatment.

The first demo in the auto bay testing area was the Black Box product for black car finishes on a right side door of a fairly new black Jeep. Black car finishes are the most difficult to polish and produce an acceptable shine without scratches and swirl marks. First the polishing compound was applied to ½ of the door; then the black carnauba wax was applied. The finish was very shiny and without swirl marks. The product is tinted black so it cannot be used on other colors without some tinting.

Next the improved ICE Liquid Polish was applied to an almost new black BMW SUV in the parking lot in the sun. It went on easily and was removed easily with only light pressure with a microfiber cloth which is included with the polish. The finish was very nice without any swirl marks or powdery residue. The microfiber cloth is helpful in getting a smooth application with one side of the cloth and then a thorough removal of the excess polish with less pressure with the other side of the cloth. Mike Schultz said that the microfiber cloth should not be washed with cotton materials or you’ll get cotton lint on the microfiber cloth and then the car finish when using it. For a finish in decent condition, the ICE Liquid Polish allows significant reductions in time and effort in polishing your car. With standard waxes you must wait for the wax to dry before removing it with a lot more effort and wax residue settling on the finish.

Next the hood of an older silver Honda Civic was waxed beforehand with ICE Liquid Polish on the left half and a competitor’s wax on the right side and then was repeatedly washed with a car wash solution. After at least 6 washes, the half polished with the ICE Liquid Polish was still beading water significantly more than the half waxed with the competitor’s product.

Next the ICE Wheel and Tire Cleaner and ICE Tire Shine products were demonstrated on the Civic’s right-side tires and wheels. Both have a removable brush on the top for more thorough scrubbing of the wheel and tire. Since the tire and wheel cleaned were not very dirty, cleaning our tires and wheels with these products should be done to really see how well they do.

Next the ICE Total Interior Care T465 cleaner was demonstrated on the Civic’s interior. This non-greasy product can be used on all interior surfaces including the windows. Also it conditions as well as cleans the material in one easy step.

Their new Headlight Lens Restorer Kit was demonstrated on the Civic which had mild lens scratching/haze on the driver’s side lens. First a liquid clarifyind compund was applied. Then four fine grit pads were used sequentially from 1800 to 8000 grit to remove the larger scratches and haze. There was a significant reduction in the haze of this lens. A more severe test with my ’03 Taurus will tell how well it really works. I hope to have that done in the next week.

Their improved spray Bug and Tar Remover is the top-selling bug and tar remover on the market and was demonstrated on the Civic. This product was recently updated with the addition of a new solvent for tree sap and seed-pod stains. A customer had contacted Turtle Wax and submitted samples of tree seed-pods that caused the stain that the previous product did not remove. Mike’s group found a solvent that cut the stain and then added it to the formulation. It also stays on the body without running off allowing it to soak into the debris if you wait several minutes after application as recommended for better removal. Mike also said that a stain should be washed off as soon as you see it. If it is not removed initially, wait 20-30 days to give the stain time to lift out of the finish before trying to remove it with a removal product. Mike Schultz also said the remover does remove the polish where it is applied but it also contains a wax that will leave a barrier to reduce the absorption of future debris.

Overall, Turtle Wax is paying attention to customers’ wants and needs with the innovative ICE products and willingness to improve their existing products.

I want to thank the Turtle Wax people for inviting us to see what they’ve been up to.

Larry Schappell  (Kevin’s Dad)

Brown speckles began appearing all over my white yukon. The dealer said rail
dust, fix with claybar treatment, $300 thank you! The spots started to come
back within 2 weeks. The GM dealer now does a tap dance and with lot of BS.
Who can I take this vehicle too to find out what is really happening to
this paint job. No other cars where I park this car are similarily
afflicted. Thanks

Answer:

I am guessing you are in the mid-atlantic region. I too have seen the little black spots on my car. My spots looked like little balls of tar and you can scratch the tops of the ball off, but a small spot still remains which is hard to remove? Is this what you are seeing? If it is, you problem is not rail dust, but Artillery Fungus ! Yes I said fungus. In the mid-atlantic region there has been a real problem with this little known fungus which shoots a sticky liquid from it’s insides up to a couple of feet away. The wind can then carry them even further. They grow in rotting wood and mulch. It may not be from your place of business, but rather from your house, or even the gas station you may visit every morning for coffee. (if they have mulch around)

For more information, Dr. Donald D. Davis of Penn State is currently doing research on this annoying fungus http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/d/d/ddd2/

My method of removing the spores is this… I wash the car first, then use bug and tar remover with a 100% cotton towel, as to not scratch the paint. This works well with spores that have not been on the vehicle for a long time. Older spores need to be removed with a clay bar, as your dealer did the first time. You can purchase a clay bar kit in most auto parts stores, under the Mothers brand. A word of caution with the clay bar, keep folding it over, exposing new clay, to prevent built up dirt from scratching your paint. It’s a great way to clean your car, but if not used properly, it becomes like sand paper. I have also had limited success with latex paint remover sold under the M-22 label, but I do not believe this is sold anymore.

To prevent the spores from coming back, you can try to re-mulch the area that you park next to, or replace the mulch with stones as I did at my business.

Good Luck,

Kevin

My new 2006 G6 was left under a pecan tree while I was on vacation for 2
weeks.  Upon returning I quickly washed it off, but now have brown spots
all over the finish.  What can be done to remove the brown spots?

Answer:

I would try bug and tar remover first.  Make sure to use a 100% cotton towel and make sure it’s clean.  You want to avoid grinding any dirt into the finish.  If that does not remove it, I would try a clay bar.  Most auto parts stores carry Mothers Clay bar, which should get your spots off.  Again, be cautious with the clay bar… read the directions and knead/fold the clay often to prevent dirt trapped in the clay bar from becoming like sandpaper.

Good Luck,

Kevin

Sometimes it is not what you know but who you know that makes all the difference in the world. You may not be able to handle all the repair on your vehicle, so finding a repair shop you can trust is vital to the life of your vehicle and wallet. You do not have to be a master mechanic if you have a good repair shop that you trust. Let’s look at a few tips to finding a good repair shop you can trust.

- Ask friends and co-workers for recommendations. Word of mouth can be a great way to find a repair shop. Find out why they like their shop and ask them what kind of work they have had done there. Ask if the work performed was done on time and at the price quoted. Also ask if their vehicle was returned in a clean condition.

- Don’t always assume that a dealership is your best bet for service. Dealerships usually have the highest shop rate around and the newest equipment but that does not always mean the best service. There are plenty of independent repair shops with qualified mechanics and up-to-date equipment. If your car is under warranty, your best bet is to stick with the dealer. If you are not happy with the dealer you bought the car from, there is nothing stopping you from going down the road to another dealer, which has better service. Today’s dealers are selling their new cars at slimmer margins, and are forced to make money of service, so be aware of high prices and unnecessary work.

- Look for accreditation from groups like ASE and MAP. This certification shows that the shop has gone the extra mile to keep on top of their automotive education. Most mechanics will have a general certification and certain mechanics will specialize from there. Each shop may have an expert in Heating and A/C and one for Suspension. Not every mechanic can be an expert in all fields.

- When visiting, look for a clean well-organized work area and office. This should give you a peak into how the business is run. Can you really expect good and fast service if the place is a mess? A certain amount of clutter is to be expected in a shop, but old parts and trash lying around the shop is unacceptable.

- Your first job should be a small one, like an oil change or brake job. Get a feel for the shop and how they operate. When you have a major problem you will be comfortable knowing you have dealt with them before.

Once you have found a good repair shop there are a few things to remember. Always keep good records of the service performed. I prefer a small notebook in the glove box where I can jot down service dates and keep receipts in the back of the book. This notebook can provide a good history for your mechanic when he is troubleshooting your most current problem. He may be able to gain some insight based on past services. Also when you plan to sell your car, this history is a great selling point.

Make sure your repair shop knows you are happy. We always complain about the bad things, but never mention the good. A simple thank you when picking up your car, or a quick note after the service will go a long way.

Also keep learning about your car. A good repair shop will be happy to deal with an educated customer. The more you know about your car, the better you can discuss issues with your mechanic.

Kevin Schappell

There is no doubt that a good quality car seat is
one of the most important purchases the parent of an infant or toddler can make.
A properly installed car seat can be a real life saver in a crash. In addition,
a car seat can keep the baby comfortable and happy on those long road trips.

Unfortunately, there are some common mistakes parents
make when buying these important safety items. Listed below are some of the
most frequently seen mistakes made when buying and installing a car seat.

1.Buying a car seat that is difficult to install – Proper installation is the
most important part of buying a good car seat. Inspections of car seats reveal
that the majority of car seats are installed improperly. Car seats that come
with incomplete or poorly worded instructions, or those that are overly complicated
to install, can be dangerous.

2.Buying a car seat that does not properly fit your vehicle. Most car seats
are designed to fit most models of newer cars, but owners of older or more exotic
cars may have problems fitting car seats properly. If you are unsure if the
seat you chose will fit your car, be sure to check with the auto dealer.

3.Not looking for the seal of the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard. Parents
should only buy car seats that meet or exceed this federal standard.

4.Buying a car seat that is too small for your baby – All car seats carry a
maximum height and weight rating. Be sure to buy a car seat that provide room
to grow.

5.Choosing a car seat that is not compatible with your car’s seat belt. Not
all car seats are compatible with all styles of seat belts. If you are unsure
what type of car seat you need, be sure to consult with the manufacturer.

6.Not ensuring that the car seat fits the baby properly. Particularly with
larger car seats, a small baby could accidentally slip out of the seat. It is
important that infants one year of age and younger ride only in a rear facing
car seat. Only after the baby is older than one year and weighs between 20 or
40 pounds should he or she be switched to a front facing seat.

7.Not checking for safety recalls. There are a number of safety recalls on
car seats every year, and it is important to check for recalls on the model
car seat you are considering.

8.Not choosing the fabric carefully – It is important to choose a fabric that
is machine washable. In addition, a cloth upholstered seat is often more comfortable
for the baby.

9.Not buying a car seat as part of a travel system – It is possible to buy
a car seat that is part of a three part travel system. That means that the car
seat, infant carrier and stroller are all integrated into one handy unit. This
combination is often a more convenient and cost effective solution than buying
the items separately.

10.Buying a car seat that is poorly made – Poor construction may be the biggest
problem with some car seats. Be sure to check the quality of the car seat, watching
especially for any sharp edges or loose parts.

About the Author
Linda, mother of two is an inspired author of the Baby
Strollers Guide and the Baby
Products Guide

Even with the high gas prices, people are planning their summer road trips. It’s essential that you are prepared for your trip and have the right supplies on hand to handle a roadside emergency. Here is a simple checklist to prepare your
family truckster for the long haul.

- Is your car close to needing an oil change? Get the oil changed
just to be safe. Fresh oil will help your engine run cooler and at
peak efficiency. I personally use synthetic oil in my vehicles for it’s long life and superior lubrication. While you are getting your oil changed, make sure that the mechanic greases all of the suspension points and inspects everything under the car for wear.

- Check the air conditioning system, nothing is worse than a family trip with no air conditioning. If your system is not blowing cold like it used to, consider getting it recharged to keep you cool on those hot summer roads.

- Check your tires for tread depth, unusual wear and damage. Nothing
is worse than having a blowout on a Sunday with no place to get a new
tire. Also make sure your tires are properly inflated, this will save
you gas and keep your tires from wearing prematurely. Also make sure
your spare tire is inflated and in good condition. Remember that if you need to use the small “doughnut” spare included in some cars, keep the speed below 50mph and only use the tire to get to the nearest garage to get your original tire fixed or replaced.

- Top off all the fluids under the hood. Windshield washer fluid, power
steering fluid and coolant are the most important. Also make sure you have
extra fluids in the trunk just in case. I usually carry a gallon jug of fresh water from the store. You can use it to fill a radiator or keep you alive if you are stranded and need water.

- Do you have an emergency kit in your car? You should have the basic band-aids, gauze and ointments included in most kits today. You should also have a blanket in the trunk. Flares and flags are also essential for roadside safety.

- A tool kit to fix minor problems is a good idea to have in the trunk also. An adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, and a vice-grips pliers go a long way when stuck on the side of the road. I also carry electrical tape and extra fuses incase any minor electrical problems pop up during the trip.

- Don’t forget a good set of jumper cables for when you leave the lights on, or your battery goes dead. A good set of jumper cables has a heavy gauge wire and sturdy clamps at each end. There are some new cables on the market, which have LED lights to show you if you have the cables hooked up properly. If you can find a set, it’s worth the price to know that you are jumping your car the right way. I get more questions about how to jump-start a car properly. You can read the proper way to jump start a car at www.sparkcharge.lol/faq.htm

- How old is your battery? A dead battery is a common problem while on
vacation and a major inconvenience. If it’s older than 3 years, consider
replacing it. While you are under the hood, make sure the terminals are
tight and have a good coat of grease on them. The grease will keep the terminals
from corroding. A mechanic can test your charging system and battery in about 5 minutes. This extra test could save you a lot of headaches on your trip, if something was to go wrong with your charging system.

- Do you belong to a motoring club like AAA? Make sure your membership is current and you have the membership card with you on your trip.

Now that you have everything prepared for your summer road trip, get ready for a million “are we there yet’s” and “Daddy I have to Pee” Aahh… the joys of the family vacation !

Your engine is just like a big air pump, it’s job is to pump air. In the process your engine adds in some gasoline and lights it on fire. You need to make sure that the air is moving in and out of the engine with little to no restriction, and you need to make sure that all the gas that goes in gets burned. If you can do this, your engine will be as efficient as possible.

Air enters your engine through an air filter. The filter is designed to keep dirt and other contaminants out of your engine, which prevents premature wear. Most stock air filters are a compromise between their ability to filter and a longer service interval. New cotton filters from companies like K&N perform much better than your stock filter and can last the lifetime of your vehicle. There is one trade-off, you have to clean and oil the filter at a set interval. It’s best to do this at every oil change to keep your filter operating at peak efficiency. This process can be done with a hose and the special oil provided with the filter.

Once the air has entered your engine, it travels through the throttle body and into the intake. Overtime your throttle body accumulates carbon buildup and needs to be cleaned. If your engine has over 50,000 miles, I would get a can of throttle body cleaner and clean it. This can help how your engine idles and keep your engine operating at peak efficiency.

Your engine cannot run on air alone, and this is where the gas comes in. Just before entering the cylinder, the air gets a shot of gas from the fuel injectors. If your fuel injectors are clogged or stuck, too much or too little fuel will be injected. Regular use of a fuel injector cleaner added to a tank of fuel, can keep your injectors operating like new. If you have over 100,000 miles and have not used a fuel injector cleaner in the past, your mechanic can clean the injectors and most likely get them back to as-new condition.

Now that the air and gas is in your cylinder, the engine fires a spark plug to light the volatile mixture. This happens many times per second and in order for it to happen properly, your ignition system needs to be in good condition. If your spark plug wires are cracked or damaged, they can leak voltage to the engine block and prevent the spark plug from firing completely, or not at all. This can allow unburned gas to exit the engine and reduce the efficiency of your engine. Inspect your spark plug wires for signs of cracking or arcing and replace if you see any damage. Your engine’s spark plugs lead a tough life. They have to endure super high temperatures and very high voltages. The spark plug has an electrode and ground strap, which is separated by a specific distance. This distance is called the plug gap, and can widen with time as the two parts wear. As with air filters, auto manufactures compromise on spark plugs and make them last a long time but lose some efficiency. Most newer spark plug electrodes are made from Platinum, which wears like iron, but does not conduct electricity as well as copper. Older style copper plugs work better, but do not last as long since copper is soft compared to Platinum. I do not suggest you switch to copper plugs, but I would suggest changing plugs sooner than the recommended interval just to be safe. If your service manual suggests changing spark plugs at 75,000 miles, I would change them at 60,000 miles just to be safe.
In the next article I will discuss how your driving style can increase your gas mileage and save you even more money.

Kevin Schappell runs www.AutoEducation.com where he gives advice on auto repair, maintenance and car care. If you would like to comment or ask a question you can email him at Kevin@AutoEducation.com

Myth #1: Buy gas in the morning when the gas is cooler, thus denser.

Gasoline is stored in underground tanks, which remain at a fairly constant temperature. I have personally reviewed the tank readings at my local gas station to confirm this fact. It’s like a cave, which stays at a constant temperature all year long due to it’s distance from the surface of the earth. The only factor that comes into play, is when the gasoline is delivered to the tank. When gasoline is transported in trucks, it will expand with heat. If you buy your gas right after the tank is filled, you will receive warmer gas, but I would not stake out your local gas station to find out when the gas truck delivers.

Myth #2: Driving with the windows down at highway speeds without A/C is better than windows up with the A/C on.

When at highway speeds, keep your windows up. On most vehicles, having the windows open at highway speeds will create extra drag and cost you gas. If it’s a hot day, running the A/C is a necessary evil, and will cost you gas mileage, but the loss is about equal to keeping the windows down on most cars. When driving under 45mph, keeping the windows open and A/C off will be more economical because drag from having the windows is not in effect at the lower speeds.

Myth #3: Keep your engine running if you are making a quick stop at the store, it takes more gas to start your engine than to leave it running for a few minutes.

This myth is not true, starting an engine takes very little extra fuel, and it is always better to turn the engine off.

Like anything in life, cheaper is not always better. When it comes to buying gas there are a few things to remember.

Name brand gasonline generally has more detergents, which help your engine run cleaner and more efficiently. I personally use Texaco due to some personal experiences and the fact that I used to work at a Texaco station in high school and college. At the time, the regular gasoline did not have the same additives as the plus and supreme grade. I switched from regular to plus grade, and got better gas mileage. I was driving a 1979 Mustang at the time with a 4 cyl. engine and went from 18 to 20 mpg just by switching grades of gas.

To find the lowest prices, there are websites online, which post almost real-time gas prices across the country. I would also shop at gas stations, which have competition, which will drive prices down. So the more gas stations in the area, the better the price.

When you are at the gas pump, start the pump and then take a walk around your vehicle. You should check all 4 tires for any signs of low air pressure. In all but the higher performance tires, you can see the sidewall of the tire bulge when air pressure drops. Once per month I would check the tires with a quality tire gauge to be safe. Low tire pressure can create more rolling resistance and will hurt your gas mileage. If you are not a good judge of tire pressure by looking at the tires, consider a cool new product on the market that replaces your valve stem cap. It shows green when your tires are at the proper pressure, and red when they are low on air.

Safe Driving,

Kevin Schappell

Before we get into how you should drive for the best gas mileage, let’s talk about what you should do before you leave the driveway. The first thing you should do, if it’s hot outside, is turn off you’re A/C and roll down the windows. This will reduce the load on your engine, and clear out the super heated air that has built up in your vehicle. Once you are above 45 mph, roll up the windows and turn on the A/C.

We can now start our discussion on driving style and discover how you can save up to 33% on gas. The first thing to think about when driving is conservation of momentum. Consider the following two scenarios…

1. You are driving along at 45 mph and see a red light ahead. You wait until the last second and slam on the brakes, then accelerate away when the light turns green.
2. You are driving along at 45 mph and see a red light ahead. You let off the gas pedal, and coast into the light, while anticipating when it will turn green. If you time it right, you never stop and continue on your way, ahead of where you would have been in scenario #1

This type of thinking in scenario #2 will put money back into your pocket. Your brake pedal is your enemy when trying to get better gas mileage. If you can anticipate traffic ahead of you, and avoid having to push on the gas pedal hard, you will save gas. Any time you use the brakes, you are losing momentum and wasting energy.

I had a friend in high school, whose dad put a vacuum gauge in all of his vehicles. A vacuum gauge in simple terms, measures the load on an engine. It served to remind my friend’s dad how he was driving, and forced him to go easy on the gas pedal to save gas. Consider having your mechanic install one of these gauges, the cost is minimal, and you may learn a little about how you are driving. If you have a newer car with an advance engine computer, it may tell you your instant and average mileage. Use the instant gas mileage readout instead of a vacuum gauge, it’s just as good.

You want to accelerate as mildly and evenly as possible to get to your desired speed. If you have a tachometer in your car, you can watch engine RPM and try to keep it under 3,000. You should be able to get to your destination in a safe and speedy manner, using these techniques and save some gas in the process.

There has been a lot of debate about what is the best speed to drive on the highway. Politics and safety issues have clouded the issue even further. The fact is that every car has it’s own speed where peak efficiency occurs. I had a Corvette that got the best gas mileage at 70 mph. It’s not practical to drive this fast everywhere, so I compromised and kept it legal as often as possible. Depending on your engine, transmission and gear ratio in the axle of your car, you ideal speed will be higher or lower than my car. The most important fact to remember is to keep your speed steady and avoid abrupt stops and starts.

I have heard various automotive journalist report better gas mileage by not using the cruise control. There reasoning was that they were focused on driving for efficiency and could make better decisions that the cars cruise control computer. This theory is valid, if you are on a highway with a lot of elevation changes. If you are not using cruise control, you can allow your vehicle to coast down long hills and build up some extra speed, which will help you climb the next hill. Of course you need to use some common sense here and not allow your car to go too fast to avoid speeding tickets or dangerous driving conditions.

The last tip I can offer on driving, is make your vehicle as light as possible. The lighter your vehicle, the less you engine has to work to move you around. Remove any unnecessary items from the trunk and car to help keep your car as light as possible.