Answer:

P0125 – Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0705 – Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)

These codes are generic OBDII codes from the following site…
http://www.carclinicmagazine.com/fault_code_library.html

I would guess from the first code your coolant sensor is shot, or the
wiring is bad to the sensor.  The second one related to the
transmission shifter location, which the sensor may be in the
transmission or the console where the shifter is.  I don’t have a
Jaguar manual handy to tell you specifics.  Alldata repair manuals are
an excellent source for this kind of specific info.
https://sparkcharge.lol/alldata.htm

How much should it cost with labor and everything to replace a second gear synchronizer on a 2002 jeep wrangler 4.0 litre standard car.

Answer:

I do not have a labor guide in front of me to give you an exact number. The AllData online manuals have labor guides included for most vehicles, but you do have to pay for it. I would imagine the labor rate is around 8 hours and parts would be around $100.

Check Out AllData…
https://sparkcharge.lol/alldata.htm

Hello. I let my neighbor borrow my Ford F350 Diesel Pickup truck. When I picked it up, he informed me that he had put it in 4-wheel low. I asked him if he put it in neutral first, and he said he did not, he just had it in park. My question is, will that damage my truck, and if so, what are some things I need to look out for, telling me that damage occured?

Thanks for taking my question. Tim

Answer:

Tim,

It should not have caused any damage, the real problem would be if he
shifted into 4LO while driving, but the newer Fords prevent you from
doing that anyway. The gears for 4LO are not synchronized, and
straight-cut so they can not be shifted on the fly, so having the
transmission in neutral allows the shafts in the transfer case to free
spin and engage smoothly while the vehicle is at rest. When shifted
into 4LO while in park, there may have been a slight clunk if the
gears did not mesh properly, but it would not cause any wear to the
gears or damage. If however the truck was moving, and he tried to
shift into 4LO there would have been a lot of grinding, possibly a
broken tooth on the gear and some wear. That is why most newer
vehicle prevent you from engaging 4LO while the vehicle is in motion.

Everytime i’m driving my car,i here this clicking noise when i turn the
wheel to the right..i’m afraid i might “break” something or possibly have
the car stop running while i’m driving…what is this and also when i leave
from my parking spot,there seems to be a grease spot on the ground…i know
it is not the oil in my car..so what is it?

Answer:

More than likely the clicking is the CV joint (constant velocity) if you have a front wheel drive car.  And the spot you see on the ground is the grease leaking out of it.  There is a boot which is supposed to keep the grease in the CV joint, but over time it wears out and may split.  This will allow the grease to leak out and dirt to get into the CV joint.  This will cause premature wear and the clicking noise you hear.  Get the car to a mechanic ASAP, if the CV joint snaps, you may lose control over the vehicle.

Kevin

There’s been something going on with my clutch ever since my floormat got
shoved up in there and was pushing up on where the clutch thing connects to
the master clutch cylinder. It’s not leaking any  fluid, but it’s almost
like air is getting in there. I’ve seen a lot of info about how the slave
cylinders have needed replacement on many of the Sonoma models (mine is a
’98), but I really don’t feel like that is the problem. The issue comes and
goes and sometimes it’s worse than other times. Sometimes I’ll get in and
push in the clutch and it’s perfect, other times there’s no clutch at all
and I can’t get it into gear for my life. Do you think it’s some sort of
sensor, or electrical issue that the floormat interference started? Or is
it something more serious (and expensive) like the slave cylinder? My dad
knows a lot about repairing cars/trucks but not so much with the electrical
stuff, and he’s pretty sure that’s what it is. Any ideas before I shell out
a pretty penny at the garage?
Answer:

As far as I know, there are no electrical connections or sensors on the hydraulic clutch system for your vehicle.  If there was, it would be a fluid level sensor, which would not keep the system from working.  Do you have to add fluid to the clutch master cylinder?  Is the level low?  I would suspect either a low level, or a bad slave cylinder.

If your level is low, I would fill it up and monitor it.  If it the level stays high, then I would say that you just got a little air in the system from the level being low.  If the level drops again, then the fluid is leaking somewhere.  Either the hose or the slave cylinder.

Kevin

Hi Kevin:

It is interesting stumbling on this site.

My 1992 Honda Ballade makes a noise in idle running. Pressing the clutch stops the noise. What part of the clutch could this noise be coming from? What could be the cause from your own view?

-Tunji

Answer:

What is a stud? How would one get broken and would it make the steering mess up,pump rack and pinon-95 Nissan Altima

Thank you
Karen

Answer:

There could be a couple of studs on the front of your car. A stud is a threaded piece of metal which is attached permanently to another part of the car. So when tightening the nut, you do not have to hold the back side of the stud. In other words, it’s a bolt which can not turn, thus allowing you to tighten the nut without holding the bolt.

There are wheel studs which go through the axle flange and through your tire. This stud is what the lug nut threads on to and holds your tires in place. Most cars have 4 or 5 studs per wheel. Not likely that this caused a problem with the power steering.

There are also studs which the power steering pump and rack and pinion mount to, both could cause problems if they snapped. These studs could break due to fatigue, or hitting a curb with the tire.

Take Care,

Kevin

1. Operate the clutch and observe where the clutch grabs. It should grab about 2″ from the floor. The motion of the pedal should be smooth and even. Make sure you have the emergency brake on when doing any of these tests.

2. Listen for any chatter or squealing when operating the clutch. Is there a grinding noise when the clutch is depressed? This indicates a worn throwout bearing, and will require the transmission to be removed to replace it. You can assume if the throwout bearing is bad, the clutch is not in the best condition.

3. Put the car in 2nd or third gear and let the clutch out slowly. (make sure the car’s emergency brake is on, and you have your foot on the brake) Does the engine RPM decrease and almost stall? If it does, the clutch still has some life in it, and is doing it’s job. If the clutch slips, and the engine does not sound like it’s going to stall, there is a good chance the clutch needs to be replaced.

4. While on a road test, does the transmission shift smoothly? Is there any crunching when changing gears? A crunching noise when shifting usually indicated bad sychnonizers in the transmission, but can sometime just be the clutch cable being out of adjustment.

Keep these tips in mind the next time you are inspecting a used car, or trying to diagnose your own car. A manual transmission car can be a blast to drive, and offer better fuel economy, but presents unique issues when trying to evaluate it’s health.

More information on your Car’s driveline

Kevin