September 23rd, 2008
Question:
Dear Kevin
I need your advice. I am about to overhaul my motor. When I reach 80km/ph I get the oil pressure signal and the siren goes on and the red light flashes on the dashboard. My mechanic advised to have the crank grinded. I am taking the crankshaft for grinding as it is currently making a knocking noise. Please advise what other things will need to be replaced after the crank is done in order for the engine to last me longer, and to do a proper job. I will prefer to do this myself. I am not a professional mechanic but would like to learn more.
Hoping to hear from you soon.
Answer:
As with any engine rebuild, you will have to make the decision to rebuild or buy a replacement engine. The replacement engine can be new, used or remanufactured. I do not recommend a novice rebuild their engine, unless they can afford to make a few mistakes and accept that as the price of education. With that said, any rebuild will include the following…
1. Compression check if possible before removal of engine. Check compression on all 4 cylinders paying attention to the maximum value as well as the difference between cylinders. Compression should be around 130 – 160 psi depending on how much wear there is in the cylinder. If compression values are low in any cylinders a leak-down test will need to be performed to determine where you are losing compression. Possible suspects are bent valves or worn rings.
Posted in Engine | No Comments »
August 28th, 2006
Question:
I have a 5.7L (350 cid) V8 in a 1982 corvette. I believe it is an L83.
What does it take to replace the rear main seal? I have heard it minght be
possible to do so without removing the transmission. Any advice?
Thanks,
David
Answer:
I believe the rear main seal is a two piece design, so yes, it’s possible to change without pulling the transmission. You will have to remove the oil pan and the rear main cap. You can then remove the old seal and replace it. The seal is a rope style seal and you will have to use a small piece of string or wire to pull the new seal into place.
Kevin
Permanent link to this post (120 words, estimated 29 secs reading time)
Posted in Engine | No Comments »
August 28th, 2006
Question:
Just purchased (July) 2000 Toyota Camry from Toyota dealer. The 3 mo.
warranty doesn’t cover valve seals. Car has 130,000 miles, runs well, very happy with it otherwise. When it starts there is some smoke, doesn’t do it once car has run a minute even with start stops for errands. Smoke is white to perhaps slightly blue.
Doesn’t appear to be using oil and no drips under car. I won’t put enough
mileage on the car to get to 200,000 by the time I retire in 5 years and
buy a new car but I do want to take care of it.
AAA said 1,500 to replace seals. Toyota dealer said 1,100 to replace
seals. The used car dealership consultant said there is no big problem and
not to worry about it that I’d be spending money needlessly as long as there
is no big oil consumption going on I’m okay. He said he’s sure no oil will
have to be added between changes.
What is your opinion? Should I have repair done or just watch how much oil
it uses?
Thanks!
Miranda
Answer:
Posted in Engine, Oil & Lubrication | 1 Comment »
August 20th, 2006
Question:
I have a problem. – 86 Celebrity 2.5L
Car will crank but not start. While swapping battery and connecting
positive cable first I heard a popping sound by the right firewall. I
finished hooking up the battery and tried to start the car:
1. Car would crank but won’t start
2. Checked for spark wth timing light – no start
3. tried to pull codes (with paper clip) old fashion type – light would not
flash
4. radio fuse blew, all others ok
5. Could it be the computer? If not what could it be?
6. Is there a way out can check the computer – or just buy one from a junk
yard”
Answer:
It could be the computer, or a fusible link in the wiring harness. A fusible link is basically an inline fuse, that is not replacable. You would have to find the link in the harnas and replace it. Sometimes there are fuses/relays in the engine compartment also, but that is more common on foreign cars. To really diagnose the issue, you need a multi-meter, and a good repair manual with wiring schematics. You need to see if the computer is getting power, and test some of the outputs to see if it’s working.
You can buy computers out of a junkyard, and this may be an easy way to diagnose your problem without spending too much time or money. (depending on the cost of the computer) I would think you should be able to get the computer from a junkyard for less than $150. Check out www.car-part.com to search junkyard inventories.
Posted in Electrical, Engine | No Comments »
August 20th, 2006
Kevin,
Question:
First off, you have a great blog. Very informative and useful.
I own a 1982 Corvette with a 5.7L(350 cu) V8. Is this an interference
Engine?
My timing chain broke, and I’m wondering if there will be valve or cylinder
damage.
Thank you very much,
David
Answer:
From my knowledge the stock 350 is not an interference engine, so you should be ok. If you were at very high rpms or have an aftermarket cam shaft, then all bets are off. A higher lift cam could cause the valves to hit the pistons. Also if you have a set of high compression pistons in the car, same outcome.
The good news is that it’s fairly easy to change the timing chain on the SBC and you should be able to do it in a day and fire it up to see if there was any damage. This will save you the hassle of taking the intake and heads off to inspect for valve/piston damage.
Good Luck,
Kevin
Update…
Kevin,
Thanks for your answer to my last question. I have another question.
My car is a 1982 corvette with a 5.7L V8. My car started with a timing
problem. It would idle, but stall when I tried to drive it. I replaced
the fuel filters and retimed the distributor. Everything was fine for 2
days, but suddenly it refuesed to start. It won’t even turnover. It just
cranks.
Posted in Engine | No Comments »
