Monthly Archives: June 2006

  • Arizona Automotive Training School College

    Posted on June 28, 2006 by kevin

    Do you live in Arizona and looking for an education in the automotive field? I recently reviewed the Arizona Automotive Institute and checked out their automotive training courses. These guys are top notch and can get you into the auto repair field of your choice and have been around since 1968. They offer job placement assistance, help with resumes, and part time jobs while you are attending school at their Arizona campus. If you need a place to live, they will help you find an apartment while you are learning your automotive trade.
    Name: Arizona Automotive Institute
    Address: Glendale, AZ
    Phone: See Website
    Toll Free: See Website
    Email:
    Website: Arizona Automotive Institute
    Programs Offered:Automotive Technology (Diploma) * Conventional and Computerized Electrical Systems * Fuel and Ignition Systems * Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems * Computerized Diagnostic Systems * ASE Certification Preparation Automotive/Autotronics Technology (Occupational Associate's Degree) * Conventional and Computerized Electrical Systems * Fuel and Ignition Systems * Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems * Advanced Computerized Diagnostic Systems * Computer-Controlled Component Systems * ASE Certification Preparation Automotive/Diesel Technology (Occupational Associate's Degree) * Conventional and Computerized Electrical Systems * Fuel and Ignition Systems * Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems * Computerized Diagnostic Systems * Heavy Diesel Two- and Four-Stroke Engines * Diesel Fuel Systems * Heavy Truck Chassis Systems * Diesel Hydraulic Systems * ASE Certification Preparation Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning and Basic Refrigeration (Diploma) * Electrical Troubleshooting * A/C Installation, Service and Repair * Heating and Heat Pumps * Refrigeration Units * EPA Certification Preparation

    This post was posted in Automotive Schools

  • Retrofitting your car's A/C System

    Posted on June 27, 2006 by kevin

    I get a lot of questions from people wishing to retrofit their R-12 System to work with the new R-134a refridgerant. I am no expect A/C guy but I know some guys who are. The guys a www.autoACsystems.com have written a great article on what is involved in a retrofit job. Retrofitting auto A/C Systems Up until the early 1990’s, all auto A/C Systems used a common refrigerant known as R-12 (Freon). It was relatively inexpensive and very efficient at transferring heat. However, it was eventually discovered that R-12 (along with all other CFC’s and some other substances) had a very sever negative impact on the earth’s ozone layer. Therefore, R-12 had to be replaced as the preferred refrigerant. With most industrialized nations signing the Montreal Protocol (1987), the elimination of R-12 was imminent. That created a lot of questions and concerns within the industry. In addition to the concerns about finding a replacement refrigerant, there was the issue of dealing with all the vehicle A/C systems that were on the road already using R-12. This created even more questions and concerns. In order to address all of those existing R-12 systems, it was decided that they should be retrofitted to use another refrigerant. Once again, more questions and concerns. The purpose of this information is to provide you an objective overview of all the factors that have to be considered when retrofitting your vehicle’s A/C system. You may not be doing the retrofit yourself, but the information will help you understand the potential problems and difficulties that can be encountered. The details will also demonstrate that there really is no such thing as a ‘closed system’ retrofit where you can just add a can and go. When should you retrofit your A/C System? As a general rule, it’s been decided that for optimum cooling performance, any vehicle A/C system that was designed to work on R-12 should be serviced with R-12 for as long as the supply is available. As we move forward in time and supply shortages appear, it is obvious that pricing will become a major factor in the decision. If you have to retrofit, most aftermarket professionals feel that the best choice of refrigerants is still R-134a, and usually only suggest alternative refrigerants when performance problems are encountered with R-134a. Some of the factors that have to be addressed when retrofitting the A/C system include: 1) Changes in refrigerant oil 2) A/C System Flush 3) Change of drier or accumulator 4) Caution with condenser design 5) Caution regarding compressor 6) Cooling and/or cooling fan operation 7) Installation of HPCO (High Pressure Cut Out Switch) 8) Installation of charge port adapters 9) System Label Changes in A/C refrigerant oil: As a rule, R-12 systems use mineral oil and R-134a systems in new vehicles (OE Applications) will use PAG oils. For compatibility issues, the industry moved to use Ester oil (POE) for retrofitting systems. Ester oils were chosen because they were shown to be compatible with both the mineral oil already in the system and the R-134a refrigerant about to be installed. In recent years, new synthetic lubricants have been introduced that have proven work well with all oils. They have shown excellent results, improved cooling performance and have eliminated a lot of the confusion about which oil to use and when. Flushing the A/C System: This is usually done in order to remove as much of the mineral oil (and any other contaminants) in the system as possible. It also helps to assure against oil overcharging which can reduce cooling performance. When the system is flushed, the proper amount of new oil can be added before recharging. If your are considering retrofitting your a/c system because some other component has failed (ie.: leaking evaporator, compressor failure, etc.) the system should most certainly be thoroughly flushed. Change of drier or accumulator: The drier or accumulator is the one part that should always be replaced when retrofitting. First of all, it provides filtering for the refrigerant and (most importantly) removes moisture. Doing a retrofit without it would be like changing the engine oil and not changing the filter. Secondly, new replacements will (almost always) be manufactured with either XH-7 or XH-9 desiccant. These are compatible with R-134a while the desiccants used in R-12 systems may not be compatible. Caution with condenser designs: Although R-134a is an efficient refrigerant, it is not as efficient as R-12. In many older R-12 systems (pre 1980), the original condensers were manufactured in a round tube (usually 3/8” O.D.) and flat fin design. These design configurations usually do not work well with R-134a, and you may have to replace the condenser with a newer design configuration. The replacement condenser should be either an aluminum serpentine design (which incorporates all aluminum vacuum brazed construction) or a parallel flow design that incorporates smaller tube diameters and higher cooling fin density. It would not be wise to purchase the OE replacement condenser for your vehicle as it will probably be the same tube and fin design you already have. Aftermarket suppliers will be your best source. Caution regarding compressors: In almost all cases, there should be no reason to replace the compressor in order to complete the retrofit, unless it has already failed. The only precaution is for older compressors that will (after retrofitting) be operating at potentially higher pressures. The higher pressures could cause other problems or potentially a complete failure. Other than those precautions, it is good practice to remove the compressor and drain as much residual oil out as possible. (Compressor can not be flushed) Cooling and/or cooling fan operation: For applications that use belt driven fans, it is important to be sure that fan clutches (if installed) are working properly and that all fan shrouding is in tact. For applications with electric cooling fans, it is important that they be checked so that they are engaging at the proper time to help eliminate excess high pressure conditions. Additionally, a general cooling system inspection is good practice. An overheating radiator can (and will) reduce the ability of the condenser to dispel heat, causing excessive high pressures. Installation of HPCO (High Pressure Cut Out Switch): This is an excellent safety mechanism that should be installed. The switches are usually designed to perform a few functions. Most importantly, they will stop the compressor from coming on if the system looses it’s charge, and they will also cause the compressor to shut down (temporarily) should the system pressures get too high. Installation of charge port adapters: Your system should have ‘retrofit adapters’ installed on both the high and low side service ports. They are generally inexpensive and allow R-134a manifold gauge sets to be attached to the system (for charging and testing). They also provide an instant notification to the next service technician that the system has already been retrofitted to R-134a. Be cautious of the fact that many shops will install the adapters for charging purposes and remove them when they are done. This practice is illegal in most jurisdictions and should be frowned upon. System Label: Each A/C system that has been retrofitted should be labelled, identifying the new refrigerant. Additionally many of the labels allow for the amount of new refrigerant charged. That is helpful because the total amount of R-134a will be different from the total factory specified charge of R-12. Although this information does not cover every example and possible problem encountered when retrofitting an A/C system, it should provide you a good understanding of all the factors that have to be addressed. Click Here to Learn More About Your Car's A/C System

    This post was posted in Heat & AC

  • Clogged Catalytic Converter?

    Posted on June 26, 2006 by kevin

    Question: Kevin, I own a 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS. It has 130,000 miles on it. It appears to lose power when trying to accelerate when the engine is warm. For example, cruising on the interstate at 70 mph for a short time, engine at normal operating temperature, when I need to accelerate to pass the transmission down shifts, rpm increase, yet speed does not. I think my catalytic converter is becoming plugged. It does not seem to effect acceleration when the engine is cold. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bernie Answer: Sounds like the catalytic converter to me too. If this happens at night, pull off the road to a safe stop and pop the hood. Look at the catalytic converter and see if it's glowing red. You may have to look under the car, and not under the hood to see it. I had an 86 Corvette that had the same problem and the headers and pipes before the converter would glow red due to the blockage. A technician can diagnose this problem too with a pressure check of the exhaust system before the converter. It will show high pressure before the converter if it's clogged. A bad O2 sensor could be to blame, but you should be getting a check engine light too. Also a clogged fuel filter may be causing a lean condition at the high speeds you are talking about. I would have it changed if it has not been as well as crawling under the car to look for the red hot converter. Good Luck, Kevin

    This post was posted in Exhaust

  • Fixing Rust Spots Without Chemicals

    Posted on June 22, 2006 by kevin

    Question,

    I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla and it’s started to get little tiny rust spots. I’ve read you post about removing rust but I wanted to know if that applies to my situation also. I’ve been told that I can just remove the rust with a flat head screwdriver and then use touch-up paint. Is that process acceptable? Any other suggestions that don’t involve chemicals?

    Thanks,

    Melissa

    Answer:

    I would not use a screwdriver. You can tape off the area around the rust spot, go 1/4" past the rust and sand the area with some sandpaper. You can then prime and paint to keep the rust from coming back. Any auto parts store should have touchup paint and primer for your car. It's best to take care of it ASAP so the rust does not spread.

    Kevin


    This post was posted in Body

  • The Basics of Performance Upgrades

    Posted on June 13, 2006 by kevin

    It’s every guys dream to have his car, truck or SUV go faster than the next. The problem is, there are no real good roadmaps for every car, and a lot of money can be wasted chasing a few extra horsepower. Let’s look at a few common upgrades that can gain you some horsepower and earn you some respect on the road. The first upgrade that can make the most difference and make your car sound awesome is the exhaust system. Many aftermarket manufacturers are producing bolt-on exhaust systems, which can help free up 5 – 20 HP depending on how restrictive your factory exhaust is. Most systems replace the pipes and mufflers from the catalytic converter back. These are commonly called Cat-Back Systems and can be had for a price of $250 - $750 depending on materials used. Stainless steel pipes will cost you more, but will last a lot longer than plain steel. If you plan on keeping your car more than 50,000 miles or live in a state that uses salt on the roads during the winter, I would suggest stainless steel. I personally like the sound of Flowmaster Mufflers as well as Borla… your taste may vary. The next most common way to free up some horsepower is a performance air filter. By helping your engine breath better, the air filter will help you get more air and fuel into the cylinder and thus make more power. Be aware that most aftermarket filters will require some kind of cleaning and maintenance to work properly. K&N is my favorite brand and has been around the scene for a long time. Related to the air cleaner, a cold air intake relocates the air filter so your engine is breathing cool outside air instead of hot under hood air. Not all cars can benefit from this modification, as it’s sometimes hard to get the air filter in a position to scoop up that cooler outside air. Check at your local parts store to see if they have a cold air intake for your specific vehicle. Your car came from the factory built for long life and easy maintenance. The engineers at the factory have programmed your engine computer to err on the safe side at the sacrifice of more power. Aftermarket companies now produce computer chips, which will alter your engine computer and help it run at peak efficiency. For a little more than $150 you can pick up 10 – 30 HP by just changing your engine computer chip. Not bad for about an hours worth of work. The old saying, nothing beats cubic inches is still true today, but unfortunately the new cars available today no longer come with 426 Hemi engines under the hood. Most of today’s cars do not have the room for bigger engines, so what is a car guy to do? Turbo charging or super charging is the answer for today’s cubic inch challenged engines. Normally aspirated engines use outside air to fill the combustion chamber. To maintain the proper air/fuel ratio to support combustion, the engine can only burn so much fuel dictated by the size of the cylinders. This is why a larger displacement engine can produce more power, since the cylinders are larger, they can burn more fuel. In a turbo or super charged engine, the air coming into the cylinder is compressed and thus contains more oxygen, therefore requiring more fuel to completely burn. This gives you an increase in power, without adding more size to the cylinders. If you can cram twice the air and fuel into the same cylinder, you have just doubled the displacement and power of your engine. This is a very simple overview of how a turbo charger or supercharger works, and there are some downsides to both systems, but you can now see why this method of making horsepower is used commonly on today’s street machines. If you are interested in adding a turbo or super charger to your vehicle, check around and see what kits are readily available for your vehicle. Start at your local parts store, or on the Internet to do your research. It won’t come cheap, but you can add 50 – 150 HP in about a weekend’s time and have the fastest car on the block.

    This post was posted in Engine, Exhaust

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